He’e Nalu – Surfing
I love to surf or he’e nalu in Hawaiian, especially early in the morning at day break and late in the afternoon at sunset or beyond until “dark thirty”. Lissette often heads to the shoreline with a flash light to find me and several other equally addicted surfers in pitch dark surfing under moonlight and with flickering tiki torch light emitted by the Mauna Lani Bay hotel or several of the ocean front estates near Makaiwa Bay. At times you can only make out the incoming swell by a slight difference in the grey and black tones in the water or the glint of the moons reflection off the top of the incoming swell. Those sitting deeper and near the reef see it first and begin to whistle their own warning of the incoming wall of water. Dangerous-yes-but there is nothing more thrilling than timing a take off only by the swell hitting the back of your board and the obvious roar of the wave hitting the reef.
Sunsets along the Kohala Coast are incredible also magnified by the beautiful reflection of the red glow against Mauna Kea an...